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soil testing

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Re: soil testing

Post  sanderson on 7/20/2016, 8:33 pm

Received soil test results today!  I'm rather shocked at the results and I hope Camp can inject some of her wisdom. Embarassed Embarassed  Anyone else have a "soil-less" test done on their MM?  I'm now reading sections of "Teaming with Nutrients" and it seems I need some "ocean" stuff in my compost.  ??


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Re: soil testing

Post  yolos on 7/20/2016, 10:38 pm

Yep, it seems the main unfavorable is the micro nutrients.  Low in Calcium etc.  Maybe why you had blossom end rot problems.
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Re: soil testing

Post  has55 on 7/20/2016, 11:46 pm

I started adding weekly milk and epsom salt this year. No BER., but had it last year without milk and epsom salt, even though I added bone meal for calcium both years. Thanks Sanderson, I post my testing when my beds completed. do they recommend what to do?
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Re: soil testing

Post  camprn on 7/21/2016, 8:22 am

Time for some manure or tish leavings in the pile. I'll look at the results in more detail  soon.

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Re: soil testing

Post  has55 on 7/21/2016, 10:49 am

I may be missing it when I looked at the report. do they recommend what to do?
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Re: soil testing

Post  sanderson on 7/21/2016, 11:41 am

No recommendations.

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Re: soil testing

Post  camprn on 7/21/2016, 1:10 pm

sanderson wrote:No recommendations.
http://ucanr.edu/sites/mgfresno/

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Re: soil testing

Post  sanderson on 7/21/2016, 6:37 pm

Thanks, Camp. The MG office is always an option. I was going to read their class book and see if there were any organic additives suggested. Has55 wanted to know if the lab made any recommendations and the answer is no. Husband will help me scan the lab reports later today. I will also include one of the 3 lab slips so you see what info I submitted.

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Re: soil testing

Post  has55 on 7/21/2016, 11:23 pm

sanderson wrote:Thanks, Camp.  The MG office is always an option.  I was going to read their class book and see if there were any organic additives suggested.  Has55 wanted to know if the lab made any recommendations and the answer is no.  Husband will help me scan the lab reports later today.  I will also include one of the 3 lab slips so you see what info I submitted.  
put that DH to work, scanning till his arm hurt, Well maybe not , if it's one page to two pages Very Happy
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Re: soil testing

Post  sanderson on 7/22/2016, 12:11 am

Finally got it scanned, and most importantly, saved to where I can find it again, and sent to Camp.

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MM poor test results

Post  SistaAge on 7/22/2016, 8:20 pm

Hello:

I had my MM tested and the results came back with low nutrients.  I was surprised since it's new...on the other hand, maybe BECAUSE it's new is the reason.  I'm wondering if I should add more compost or add nutrients.  I was under the impression that it was not necessary to not add any fertilizer to MM.  Any suggestions?
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Re: soil testing

Post  sanderson on 7/22/2016, 8:30 pm

Can you post the results like I did above?  That will help us.  As you can see by my results, some of the nutrients are low!  And, I make my own compost.  tongue

What did you use to make the Mel's Mix?

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Re: soil testing

Post  SistaAge on 7/22/2016, 10:54 pm

sanderson wrote:Can you post the results like I did above?  That will help us.  As you can see by my results, some of the nutrients are low!  And, I make my own compost.  tongue

What did you use to make the Mel's Mix?

s
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Re: soil testing

Post  sanderson on 7/22/2016, 10:59 pm

What about the macronutrients?

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Re: soil testing

Post  SistaAge on 7/23/2016, 10:00 am

Oops...  sent same page twice in error...sanderson wrote:What about the macronutrients?
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Re: soil testing

Post  SistaAge on 7/23/2016, 10:09 am

SistaAge wrote:
SistaAge wrote:
Oops...  sent same page twice in error...sanderson wrote:What about the macronutrients?
just attempted twice to send other page...not sure why it's not uploading...  will work on it.
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Re: soil testing

Post  SistaAge on 7/23/2016, 10:09 am

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Re: soil testing

Post  camprn on 7/23/2016, 10:16 am

Sista please tell us the types of 5 composts you used. 
I haven't gotten too far in the research, but here is a start.

http://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/soil-nutrients-zmaz94jjzraw.aspx

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Re: soil testing

Post  SistaAge on 7/23/2016, 10:49 am

the 5 we used were:  worm castings, cow manure, lobster compost, general organic compost from reputable garden center, our own compost from grass clippings and fruit-veg-egg shells.
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Re: soil testing

Post  SistaAge on 7/23/2016, 10:55 am

camprn wrote:Sista please tell us the types of 5 composts you used. 
I haven't gotten too far in the research, but here is a start.

http://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/soil-nutrients-zmaz94jjzraw.aspx
thank you for the article - no matter how many times I read about N,P.K, I STILL need to read more!  I thought there would be no need to fertillize/supplement MM...  I guess not always the case.
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Re: soil testing

Post  sanderson on 7/24/2016, 11:41 am

What were the ratios of the 5 composts/worm castings. Are you having problems with the plants with such low macro-nutrients?

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Re: soil testing

Post  SistaAge on 7/24/2016, 2:20 pm

sanderson wrote:What were the ratios of the 5 composts/worm castings.  Are you having problems with the plants with such low macro-nutrients?
1/5 of each ingredient for the compost to make up 1/3 of the MM.  The plants are doing relatively well.  They're green and seem to be disease free.  A few bean plants were struggling slightly, and i removed them - I'm guessing because not enough N.  Vegetatively, they're healthy.  They could use a boost for flower production for a few more fruiting areas, but even that is decent. I used compost around the bases of plants a few times, and think I will do that some more to see if that helps.  I wanted to have a compost analysis done, but it costs more than I'm willing to spend at this juncture.
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Re: soil testing

Post  camprn on 7/30/2016, 12:07 pm

So in looking over the report that Sanderson sent to me, there are numerous things that are not ideal that should be corrected. The results are a great example of why to  DO A SOIL TEST BEFORE ADDING GARDEN AMENDMENTS. IT is important to know what you are working with before tossing in a bunch of chemicals, wether they are of a natural or synthetic nature.

pH:7.78. This needs is a little high and needs to be brought down to the 6.0-7.0 range. Many of our garden plants perform best in this range. Our garden growing medium/soil is a chemistry soup the needs to be healthy, well fed, and in balance to allow the plants to grow well and take up what they need.

Here is an article that explains pH and why it needs to be in the correct range, because if it is not, some nutrients will never be available to plants, even if present in the soil.

http://gardenrant.com/?guest_post=please-stop-liming-your-soil-based-on-the-ph


Sanderson's results show:

N: very low                      -- \
P:normal range                 --   \
K:is a little high but ok       --     -- see article above for explanation of how these are all  
                                               dependent on each other. too much K will compete                  
                                               chemically with Ca and Mg.
Ca:very low                      --   /
Mg:very low                     --  /


http://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/soil-nutrients-zmaz94jjzraw.aspx

Boron and magnesium: very low

https://woodleaffarm.com/enlivening-soil/

So, the most important thing to keep in mind is we want healthy  soil (MM). The best way to achieve this is to add quality compost to the mix after harvest. I have been saying it for years, but the one wee trowel-full of compost that Mel recommended is just not enough to supply what our intensively spaced garden plants need to survive, never mind thrive and produce good food for us. I typically add a whole wheelbarrow full of compost to a 4X4 each year, and then top dress through the season. You gotta feed the soil and your plants.

When making compost, I can not understate the value of manure in the compost pile. IT add micronutrients, but also has enough N in it to make it through the composting process and have something left over. Remember, what you put in the compost pile is what you will feed your plants with. If you just add leaves and grass, a handful of coffee grounds, maybe some weeds and toss in an alfalfa pellet or two, this isn't going to give you what you need.

Toss in the leftover fish bones and mouldy cheese ends. Pour on the sour milk and any other food gone by.  If it is going slow, add a sprinkle of blood meal to get the pile going. Do not heat your pile to a temperature greater than 140F if you can help it.

Throw in everything you can think of except for animal fats, meat, carnivore feces.

The best composting website I know of is the Cornell Composting website. There you can find the why and how including science test results and peer reviewed written works about the science of composting. Also, there is a section for the home composter.
http://compost.css.cornell.edu/
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Re: soil testing

Post  has55 on 9/20/2016, 4:35 pm

got both of my soil test back. One from the University of Arkansas and the other from Dr. Ingham soil food web lab. I will separate the post for each lab results.
First the University Of Arkansas, Division Of Agricultural,,soil testing lab.
my story email to both labs is as follow,
Here’s my background. I raised the beds using cinder blocks in june. So I had to shoveled  the soil out , build the beds , add wood mulched to a certain level ( because it would have been tooooo expensive to go buy compost to fill the beds to 3 ft.), then returned the soil. SO the soil food web was destroyed or totally disorganized. I tried to protect the soil by covering, but the workers removed the covering when building the beds, back in June. Then I left them uncovered till mid august.( I knew better). my soil tested out as sandy loam. In Dr. Ingham youtube video she said there is only three types of soil, sand, clay and loam. but sand and clay can take on the properties of loam when organic material is added to them and change through decomposition. The base property will always be there, sand, clay or loam.
In this report it seems I have similar results as "one yard revolution" has and need not to add anything , but compost and some nitrogen. But this is the conventional test for soils, see the next post for soil food web results.


 Austin,

This report has the Organic Matter listed under the soil properties. The soil texture came back as Sandy Loam. Below are the readings in percentages.

39.6 % Sand
18.7 % Silt
15.7 % Clay 



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Re: soil testing

Post  has55 on 9/20/2016, 4:45 pm

This report is from the soil food web and test done by Dr. Ingham. Looking at the soil food web. I have some work to do, but I'm on the right path. which is a great relief.'But this explains why my plants seems to have struggle at first, then kick in to high gear, because I had disturbed the soil greatly. this happen the first time I raised the beds when I started this thread. These results are for the current situation that I explained above. Hopefully, I learned some new stuff when the soil food web and interplanting plants, when I attend Heather Rinaldi class Thursday.



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