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Fusarium Wilt on Tomatoes

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Fusarium Wilt on Tomatoes

Post  vinny09 on 6/23/2010, 9:37 pm

So I think a couple of my tomato plants are suffering from Fusarium Wilt. In 1 SFG, 2 of the 4 have them (the ones on the outside; the two in between don't have symptoms yet). A few of the lower stems and their leaves on the plants are turning yellow, one stem has turned brown and shriveled. Both plants are bearing fruit (all green). What are the chances that my plants will survive to allow the fruit to ripen? If so, are the fruit still edible? I've been reading that Fusarium Wilt is terminal to tomato plants, but how soon depends on when the plant "caught" it. Also, should I cut these stems off and throw them out or just leave the plants as is to avoid any open wounds? Or is there something I can try to save them? Or should I start new transplants in a new box to ensure I get tomatoes this season? Thanks in advance!


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Re: Fusarium Wilt on Tomatoes

Post  Chopper on 6/23/2010, 10:17 pm

I don't think I have ever made it through a year without ill tomatoes. But I almost always get a harvest of some sort. I would let them keep going. I always pick off the sick looking leaves in the hopes of keeping things in check. No idea if it helps.


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Re: Fusarium Wilt on Tomatoes

Post  milaneyjane on 6/24/2010, 12:12 am

Last year my tomatoes came down with something, and we never did figure out exactly what it was. It was mid season and despite most of the leaves turning yellow and falling off, I still got bumper crops.


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Post  ander217 on 6/24/2010, 8:10 am

Here is an excerpt from a publication by Colorado State University Extension:
Recognizing Tomato Problems

by B. Edmunds and L. Pottorff 1 (5/09)

Fusarium wilt and Fusarium crown rot symptoms (Figure 7) begin as yellowing of older leaves. With Fusarium crown rot, the leaves often turn brown or black and eventually wilt. With Fusarium wilt, the yellow leaves turn downward and droop. Fusarium oxysporum, the cause of both diseases, is a common tomato fungus that lives in the plant's vascular system, which carries water from the roots to the leaves. To see if either of these diseases is present:

  • Check watering practices. Both over- and underwatering can mimic disease symptoms.
  • Check the roots. Discolored roots indicate root rot.
  • Cut the lower or main stem and look inside at the vascular tissue. Fusarium wilt causes a dark brown discoloration within the vascular tissue. Fusarium crown rot causes a rot or canker at the base of the stem and possibly a root rot.

Most tomato seeds or transplants are labeled with a code such as "VFN," "VFNA," "VFNT," etc. This indicates that the plants are resistant to Verticillium wilt (V), Fusarium wilt (F), southern root-knot nematode (N), early blight (A), or tobacco (tomato) mosaic virus (T). Verticillim wilt and root knot nematodes rarely cause a problem in Colorado, but if you have had a Fusarium wilt problem in the past, it would be a good idea to choose a variety labeled 'F'. Do not plant tomatoes, potatoes or eggplant in the affected area for two or three years. No fungicides are labeled for control.


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One more thing

Post  ander217 on 6/24/2010, 8:16 am

I forgot to add that it's safe to eat tomatoes from a dying vine, but they may not taste like "vine-ripened". Just don't use them for canning, although I'm not sure why the experts say that - maybe the acidity level changes.


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Post  akc203 on 6/16/2012, 11:26 am

Dealing with Fusarium Wilt. Pulled out 8 plants last night on the advice of my local extensi, on office. I now have 50+ green tomatoes and want to pickle them. There was a comment saying not to can them, but I wonder about pickling. Any info would be helpful. Thanks.


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Re: Fusarium Wilt on Tomatoes

Post  camprn on 6/16/2012, 11:28 am

@akc203 wrote:Dealing with Fusarium Wilt. Pulled out 8 plants last night on the advice of my local extensi, on office. I now have 50+ green tomatoes and want to pickle them. There was a comment saying not to can them, but I wonder about pickling. Any info would be helpful. Thanks.
I would recommend you consult the extension service for a definitive answer...
The really stinky thing is that it is advised to not plant tomatoes in the same spot for 3 years.


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Re: Fusarium Wilt on Tomatoes

Post  webbee on 6/16/2012, 5:05 pm

I have used hydrogen peroxide
especially on nursery stock I have bought that showed signs of
Fusarium Wilt and it has usually gotten rid of the disease. You will
lose some of the lower branches on the afflicted plant and it takes some time. I also use it
to water the soil around the plant. Sometimes you have to treat every
other day, however if you are diligent, you will remove the disease.
It's cheapest to buy 35% food or
reagent grade H2O2 from a chemical supply house by the gallon.
To try
H2O2 out, the 40 volume clear peroxide that hair dressers use for
hair bleaching (not the cream) is available at beauty supply stores.
It's not as consistent as food/reagent but it works.

For the 40 volume you mix:

Tune up:

1½ tea spoons per quart of

6 tea spoons per gallon.


3 tea spoons per quart

4 table spoons per gallon.

Here are some links that I used when I first tried H2O2

How to mix and apply Hydrogen Peroxide in Gardening

Mixing charts for gardening with hydrogen peroxide


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