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Seed starting
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Seed starting
While we dream of lush vegetable gardens next year, we look thru our seed catalogs and make plans to set up seedling nurseries and plan for light, water and starter medium.
I guess what I am saying is I am ready to start planning my indoor plant nursery.
I actually need to start my Artichoke seeds in December or January.
I remember a post about air pruning starter pots and can't remember where I saw it or who wrote it. Search feature not so much help this time.
Any suggestions for successful seed starting are welcome.
I guess what I am saying is I am ready to start planning my indoor plant nursery.
I actually need to start my Artichoke seeds in December or January.
I remember a post about air pruning starter pots and can't remember where I saw it or who wrote it. Search feature not so much help this time.
Any suggestions for successful seed starting are welcome.

Furbalsmom-
Posts: 3139
Join date: 2010-06-10
Age: 65
Location: Coastal Oregon, Zone 9a, Heat Zone 2 :(
Re: Seed starting
Is this the thread with the pots Furbalsmom?
http://squarefoot.creatingforum.com/seed-exchange-and-growing-info-f29/tomato-seeds-are-ready-t3295.htm
http://squarefoot.creatingforum.com/seed-exchange-and-growing-info-f29/tomato-seeds-are-ready-t3295.htm

middlemamma-

-
Posts: 2259
Join date: 2010-04-24
Age: 34
Location: Post Falls Idaho and LOVING it
Re: Seed starting
Thanks, that is exactly the one I was thinking of.
I started seeds indoors last year, and some were successful and others not.
This time I want to plan things out and have a procedure in place instead of winging it like it did before.
I started seeds indoors last year, and some were successful and others not.
This time I want to plan things out and have a procedure in place instead of winging it like it did before.

Furbalsmom-
Posts: 3139
Join date: 2010-06-10
Age: 65
Location: Coastal Oregon, Zone 9a, Heat Zone 2 :(
Re: Seed starting
ooooh, Artichokes? Do you have a line on a short growing variety?

camprn
Forum Moderator-
Posts: 5529
Join date: 2010-03-06
Age: 49
Location: Keene, NH, USA ~ Zone 5a

Re: Seed starting
The artichoke variety I am planting is Violetto from Territorial Seeds in Cottage Grove Oregon. Violet bracted choke has a small oval slightly elongated flower head 3 X 5 inches. New variety to me. Hardy in zone 6 and above,
They specify may not mature the first year in Zone 6 and lower if seeds are direct planted in the ground. Matures later than Green Globe
They recommend Imperial Star for plants grown in lower zones to be grown as annuals because they may not perinnialize (is that a word?) in zones lower than 7. Imperial Star grows 6-8 bracts per plant, 4 - 6 inches across and is nearly spineless. Good flavor, I have grown these. Earliest maturing.
Green Globe mature earlier, but again is not hardy in zones less than 7. Lower zones, grown as an annual with 3 - 4 heads, 3 - 5 inches across with nice thick hearts.
Indoors, plant seeds in late January or Early Feb transplant 8 weeks later when soil has warmed. Here the ground doesn't hit 65 degrees until May or even later
They specify may not mature the first year in Zone 6 and lower if seeds are direct planted in the ground. Matures later than Green Globe
They recommend Imperial Star for plants grown in lower zones to be grown as annuals because they may not perinnialize (is that a word?) in zones lower than 7. Imperial Star grows 6-8 bracts per plant, 4 - 6 inches across and is nearly spineless. Good flavor, I have grown these. Earliest maturing.
Green Globe mature earlier, but again is not hardy in zones less than 7. Lower zones, grown as an annual with 3 - 4 heads, 3 - 5 inches across with nice thick hearts.
Indoors, plant seeds in late January or Early Feb transplant 8 weeks later when soil has warmed. Here the ground doesn't hit 65 degrees until May or even later

Furbalsmom-
Posts: 3139
Join date: 2010-06-10
Age: 65
Location: Coastal Oregon, Zone 9a, Heat Zone 2 :(
Re: Seed starting
Furbalsmom- So I understand correctly....
I am 5b, so that is a lower zone right? And the artichoke that would work best fro me would be Imperial star?
Jen
I am 5b, so that is a lower zone right? And the artichoke that would work best fro me would be Imperial star?
Jen

middlemamma-

-
Posts: 2259
Join date: 2010-04-24
Age: 34
Location: Post Falls Idaho and LOVING it
I make my own air-pruning pots.
Its very easy to make your own. Gather those 2-liter plastic soda bottles.
Cut them down to 4"-6" tall.
Hammer holes with a Phillips head screwdriver in the 5 lowest lobes of the bottles. (I take mine outside and hammer on the lawn)
With a sharp scissors, I cut a slit from the bottom holes up about 3 inches that is about 1/8th" or so wide.
Its ready.
Fill with your favorite growing medium, transplant your smaller transplant into this larger one, set it under lights and watch them grow for another 5 or 6 weeks into strong healthy seedlings.
If you are moving tomato seedlings to the larger pruning pots, bury the seedling deeper in this pot to strengthen the main stem.
When you transplant, water them first and they will slip right out of the pot when you turn it over with the stem braced between your fingers.
The root is not disturbed.
I washed my pots well with detergent to use them again next year.
If you are worried about transmitting diseases, you can wash with a bleach and water solution.

The air-pruning pots are the clear ones on the right.
You can remove the labels on the bottles or not. Its up to you.
I used 2" soil blocks after the seeds germinated and then transplanted those blocks into the air-pruning pots after 2-3 weeks.
When the roots of the plants reach the air, they stop growing around in a circle so you don't have that girdling problem when transplanting.
Cut them down to 4"-6" tall.
Hammer holes with a Phillips head screwdriver in the 5 lowest lobes of the bottles. (I take mine outside and hammer on the lawn)
With a sharp scissors, I cut a slit from the bottom holes up about 3 inches that is about 1/8th" or so wide.
Its ready.
Fill with your favorite growing medium, transplant your smaller transplant into this larger one, set it under lights and watch them grow for another 5 or 6 weeks into strong healthy seedlings.
If you are moving tomato seedlings to the larger pruning pots, bury the seedling deeper in this pot to strengthen the main stem.
When you transplant, water them first and they will slip right out of the pot when you turn it over with the stem braced between your fingers.
The root is not disturbed.
I washed my pots well with detergent to use them again next year.
If you are worried about transmitting diseases, you can wash with a bleach and water solution.

The air-pruning pots are the clear ones on the right.
You can remove the labels on the bottles or not. Its up to you.
I used 2" soil blocks after the seeds germinated and then transplanted those blocks into the air-pruning pots after 2-3 weeks.
When the roots of the plants reach the air, they stop growing around in a circle so you don't have that girdling problem when transplanting.

quiltbea-
Posts: 2502
Join date: 2010-03-21
Age: 70
Location: Southwestern Maine Zone 5A

Re: Seed starting
Jennie, From what I have read, Imperial Star is better for lower zones like 5, but it will not grow back a second year, you have to treat it like an annual. You do need to start your seeds indoors beginning in January or February, according to the package.
I am all excited about starting Artichokes from seed. (by the way the seed life is only one year, so you have to buy new seeds every year. The germination rate is only 70% and then you have to cull up to 20% of your baby plants because they are useless due to being too small, albino or other non productive plants) But I don't care, I want to grow them from seed.
QuiltBea, thank you so much, this air pruning pot is exactly the one I was talking about. Did the the bottles work just like you thought they would? Did you have much transplant shock when moving plants into the garden?
I just want this coming year to go well as I am building my first New SFG and using complete Mel's Mix this time around. The last two years were using amended soil in an exisiting raised garden bed and the weeds almost killed me and my plants too.
I am all excited about starting Artichokes from seed. (by the way the seed life is only one year, so you have to buy new seeds every year. The germination rate is only 70% and then you have to cull up to 20% of your baby plants because they are useless due to being too small, albino or other non productive plants) But I don't care, I want to grow them from seed.
QuiltBea, thank you so much, this air pruning pot is exactly the one I was talking about. Did the the bottles work just like you thought they would? Did you have much transplant shock when moving plants into the garden?
I just want this coming year to go well as I am building my first New SFG and using complete Mel's Mix this time around. The last two years were using amended soil in an exisiting raised garden bed and the weeds almost killed me and my plants too.
Last edited by Furbalsmom on 11/11/2010, 10:46 pm; edited 1 time in total

Furbalsmom-
Posts: 3139
Join date: 2010-06-10
Age: 65
Location: Coastal Oregon, Zone 9a, Heat Zone 2 :(
Re: Seed starting
Furbalsmom...what does cull up mean?
Thank you for answering all my questions!
Thank you for answering all my questions!

middlemamma-

-
Posts: 2259
Join date: 2010-04-24
Age: 34
Location: Post Falls Idaho and LOVING it
Re: Seed starting
To cull plants is to take out and remove the less desirable ones. Kind of like thinning the ones that are not the best.
So, up to 20% of your seedlings should be pulled up (culled) because they are not good plants. (albino, small underdeveloped, etc)
So, up to 20% of your seedlings should be pulled up (culled) because they are not good plants. (albino, small underdeveloped, etc)

Furbalsmom-
Posts: 3139
Join date: 2010-06-10
Age: 65
Location: Coastal Oregon, Zone 9a, Heat Zone 2 :(
Ahhh haaaa !!!!!!!!!
QuiltBea;
We were having this discussion in another thread & I didn't know why the transplants were partially buried each time.... just knew that was how we were taught.
So it's for the stronger stem??
If you are moving tomato seedlings to the larger pruning pots, bury the seedling deeper in this pot to strengthen the main stem.
We were having this discussion in another thread & I didn't know why the transplants were partially buried each time.... just knew that was how we were taught.
So it's for the stronger stem??

acara-
Posts: 975
Join date: 2010-08-27
Age: 42
Location: Wesley Chapel, Florida (Zone 9)
Re: Seed starting
Acara, stronger stem and more roots. Roots will grow along any portion of the tomato stem that is in the ground. All those little fuzzies on the stem are potential roots.

Furbalsmom-
Posts: 3139
Join date: 2010-06-10
Age: 65
Location: Coastal Oregon, Zone 9a, Heat Zone 2 :(
Re: Seed starting
Furbalsmom wrote:Acara, stronger stem and more roots. Roots will grow along any portion of the tomato stem that is in the ground. All those little fuzzies on the stem are potential roots.
Thanks ...
Just one of my many hang-ups .... always like to know "the reason behind the rules"

acara-
Posts: 975
Join date: 2010-08-27
Age: 42
Location: Wesley Chapel, Florida (Zone 9)
Re: Seed starting
Furbalsmom......I had no trouble with the plastic bottle pots. And no trouble getting them out of the pots so no transplant shock to the roots.
I now like to cut my bottles about 6" deep for the tomato plants so they have room to grow more and stronger roots before going into the garden.
Cutting them 4" for other plants is fine, like broccoli, cauliflower, peppers, etc.
This was only my 2nd year at SFG and I learned from errors I made the first year.
You, too, will learn what works best for you.
A little experimentation now and then doesn't hurt. Things that work for me may not work for another person.
I now like to cut my bottles about 6" deep for the tomato plants so they have room to grow more and stronger roots before going into the garden.
Cutting them 4" for other plants is fine, like broccoli, cauliflower, peppers, etc.
This was only my 2nd year at SFG and I learned from errors I made the first year.
You, too, will learn what works best for you.
A little experimentation now and then doesn't hurt. Things that work for me may not work for another person.

quiltbea-
Posts: 2502
Join date: 2010-03-21
Age: 70
Location: Southwestern Maine Zone 5A

Re: Seed starting
Thanks ...
Second question if I may ....
Do you trim the section that your going to bury while transplanting (how I was taught), or do you just bury it, horizontal stems, leaves and all ??
And of course ... the obligatory (why) ,,,if you know/suspect, have an opinion
Second question if I may ....
Do you trim the section that your going to bury while transplanting (how I was taught), or do you just bury it, horizontal stems, leaves and all ??
And of course ... the obligatory (why) ,,,if you know/suspect, have an opinion

acara-
Posts: 975
Join date: 2010-08-27
Age: 42
Location: Wesley Chapel, Florida (Zone 9)
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