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Crop Rotation

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Crop Rotation

Post  clfraser on 4/26/2011, 7:45 pm

Do you rotate what is in each square between fall and spring etc. For example, come fall I would plant something other than tomatoes in the squares I have tomatoes? Or would I plant tomatoes there again and then move them in the spring?

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Re: Crop Rotation

Post  BackyardBirdGardner on 4/26/2011, 8:09 pm

Personally, I'm planning to be pretty random this year. That way the rotation mostly takes care of itself. I will do lots of lettuces, radishes, and beans, though. Lots of frequent harvesters.

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Re: Crop Rotation

Post  happycamper on 4/26/2011, 11:44 pm

Crop rotation is one of the benefits of a productive Square Foot Garden. After harvest, the square is empty. Simply add your compost and plant something else. I try and make sure that whatever is added to an empty square will have time to grow before winter or I make sure the plant is winter hardy so that it can be harvested during winter.

You may live in a warmer climate and not have to worry so much about low winter temps however. Happy Gardening!

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Re: Crop Rotation

Post  camprn on 4/27/2011, 3:28 am

Crop Rotation, the basics <~~~ click

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Re: Crop Rotation

Post  quiltbea on 4/27/2011, 10:29 am

The basic idea of crop rotation is to plant something from another family.
The crop harvested has depleted all the energy from the soil that it needs for its growth.
You don't want to plant the same thing in the same place because its been depleted, yet a crop from a different family of plants can benefit because it uses other things from the soil.

Of course, adding a couple of scoops of compost to the space before you put in the new crop will probably deal with the problem adequately.

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Re: Crop Rotation

Post  camprn on 4/27/2011, 10:55 am

quiltbea wrote:The basic idea of crop rotation is to plant something from another family.
The crop harvested has depleted all the energy from the soil that it needs for its growth.
You don't want to plant the same thing in the same place because its been depleted, yet a crop from a different family of plants can benefit because it uses other things from the soil.

Of course, adding a couple of scoops of compost to the space before you put in the new crop will probably deal with the problem adequately.
+1
Additionally, crop rotation also reduces the contraction and spread of plant diseases through soil.

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Re: Crop Rotation

Post  clfraser on 4/27/2011, 11:06 am

Great tips! Thanks yall. One other question. I have one large bed that is 54 square feet (54 squares). Is it sufficient to just rotate things around the large bed and just not plant the same things in the same square again? I am planning on building a 2x8 or 2x10 bed for my tomatoes, cucumber, and peppers (possibly alternating winter squash and melon in there too.) This will allow me to plant those somewhere completely different. I may also be constructing something just for lettuces. However, can I just rotate everything else around my large bed?

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Re: Crop Rotation

Post  quiltbea on 4/27/2011, 6:47 pm

Some folks don't bother with worrying about rotation. They feel if they are good about replenishing each year with rich compost, they don't have to worry.
But if you are one that wants to give rotation a try:

You can put the peppers and tomatoes together in one of those beds and the cucumbers in the other bed.
Next year reverse them; put the cucumbers in the tomato/pepper bed and the toms/peps where the cucumbers grew the year before.

Eggplant, peppers,tomatoes and potatoes should not follow each other the next year.

As for the large bed, if you just plant different crops in different blocks the next year you should be ok, assuming you enrich the blocks with a scoop or two (scoop or trowel) of compost before planting.

Some think that adding a handful of limestone to the hole before planting a brassica helps prevent clubroot, a deadly disease that kills the plants and can infect the soil the following year. I do that myself for a little added insurance. If its good enough for Bob Thomsen of TV's Victory Garden fame, its good enough for me.

The brassicas are broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbage and cauliflower. None of these should follow each other in the squares the next year because they are all the same family.

You can tuck leaf lettuce in beside other crops. By the time the main crop is big enough to need all the space, the leaf lettuce will have been harvested. Its a good way to save space.

You can try this: Use one square for lettuce. Scratch in a couple inches of potting soil. Sow seeds. When they start growing and need thinning, transplant them beneath the leaves of another crop. That way you only need one block for lettuce. Just keep reseeding the same block as you transplant the first lots elsewhere. Just scratch a couple of inches into the block each time you start more seeds.

I wish you great luck with your garden.

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Re: Crop Rotation

Post  clfraser on 4/27/2011, 7:06 pm

Thanks quiltbea for the great advice. I am planning away for my next planting and adjusting the current one. Very Helpful!

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Northside climbers?

Post  Mamachibi on 6/17/2011, 12:48 pm

Okay, I understand the basics of crop rotation and why it's important. But if climbers like tomatoes, peppers and cukes (three MAJOR components of my garden) are always supposed to go on the north, how does that work? I have four boxes and was planning to put tomatoes in two, peppers in one and cukes in one, all on the north side, trellised. The following year I can't use those north side spots again at all for these trellised plants. I can put beans in some, maybe a melon...

But to do rotation properly, I'd need what, 9 boxes?

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Re: Crop Rotation

Post  pattipan on 6/17/2011, 12:56 pm

Mamachibi wrote:Okay, I understand the basics of crop rotation and why it's important. But if climbers like tomatoes, peppers and cukes (three MAJOR components of my garden) are always supposed to go on the north, how does that work? I have four boxes and was planning to put tomatoes in two, peppers in one and cukes in one, all on the north side, trellised. The following year I can't use those north side spots again at all for these trellised plants. I can put beans in some, maybe a melon...

But to do rotation properly, I'd need what, 9 boxes?


I don't rotate the crops, I rotate the soil. See this post here:
http://squarefoot.creatingforum.com/t7731-importance-of-crop-rotation#70171

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Re: Crop Rotation

Post  Mamachibi on 6/17/2011, 1:01 pm

Rotating the soil sounds like more than my back will permit. But I'll sure consider that approach! Thanks!

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Re: Crop Rotation

Post  boffer on 6/17/2011, 3:18 pm

My trellised plants don't really have a home yet, as I'm still experimenting with different ideas to see what works bests for me.

One idea that I'm becoming partial to, is making a 1x4 box, with a bottom, and putting it on the north side of a 4x4 box that has a trellis on the north side. I'm finding that it's a cheaper, easier, and more versatile way to gain more growing space, and it gives me more options.

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Re: Crop Rotation

Post  ModernDayBetty on 6/17/2011, 4:18 pm

Mamachibi wrote:Okay, I understand the basics of crop rotation and why it's important. But if climbers like tomatoes, peppers and cukes (three MAJOR components of my garden) are always supposed to go on the north, how does that work? I have four boxes and was planning to put tomatoes in two, peppers in one and cukes in one, all on the north side, trellised. The following year I can't use those north side spots again at all for these trellised plants. I can put beans in some, maybe a melon...

But to do rotation properly, I'd need what, 9 boxes?


I'm new but according to the ANSFG book, if you plant a fall crop/spring crop/summer crop that is rotation. So by time you are ready to plant your trellis veggies you have already rotated the crop twice.

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Re: Crop Rotation

Post  tabletopper on 6/17/2011, 5:00 pm

Boffer: In your experiment.....does the 4x4 with a 1x4 on the north side of trellis... tomatos lean to the trellis (south)....the area ends up ...4x5? sounds really great....more for crop rotation...
Ruth...

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