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Hoop House Tutorial

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Re: Hoop House Tutorial

Post  MoneyMan94 on 10/19/2011, 7:02 am

@gwennifer wrote:I found the thread Boffer. It was rosiejoe who posted her Hula Hoop SFG's. I admit - I am enhanted! I was even already planning on getting the green bridal tulle. (I better not show my girls in case I can't find pretty hula hoops for a reasonable price.)

Great colors, I wonder if I can get the electrical pipe in multicolors?

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Re: Hoop House Tutorial

Post  RoOsTeR on 10/19/2011, 9:43 am

@MoneyMan94 wrote:
@gwennifer wrote:I found the thread Boffer. It was rosiejoe who posted her Hula Hoop SFG's. I admit - I am enhanted! I was even already planning on getting the green bridal tulle. (I better not show my girls in case I can't find pretty hula hoops for a reasonable price.)

Great colors, I wonder if I can get the electrical pipe in multicolors?



Electrical tape comes in many colors8)

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Re: Hoop House Tutorial

Post  westie42 on 10/20/2011, 12:47 pm

I am making my hoops today (I hope). Once the hoops are in the pockets and supports are tied in cutting and securing the plastic becomes the issue. I really like Boffers home made 3/4 pipe clamp idea. Using them to anchor separate end pieces also seems like a way to get a smooth and tight end pieces. For the over the top main piece am wondering about using 1/2 pvc horizontally at the bottom on both sides then fit the plastic to it using the same home made clamps. Then somehow securely anchor those horizontal pipes on each side so they can be lifted for access to garden. Does this make sense or am I off in my thinking.

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Re: Hoop House Tutorial

Post  boffer on 10/20/2011, 1:36 pm

On TT's, I can't use weights to hold the plastic on the ground, so I use furring strips to secure the plastic. This is what it looks like if your 1 inch PVC is on the outside.


This is what it looks like if your 1 inch PVC is on the inside of the box. You can see my homemade clamps on the end hoop. I use two on each end.


This is a heated hoop house; it has ends on it. I have not tried to do the ends any other way. This is when they are not in use.


The end plastic is rough cut 6-8 inches bigger than the hoop.


To close it up, I tuck the end plastic under the hoops' plastic. I use spring clamps for this rather than my homemade clamps. You can see the furring strip that holds the end plastic to the box.


This is how I do my ridge poles. The rope in this pic is for a lattice when the box is not covered. It has nothing to do with putting the plastic on.


How I attach my ridge pole to the hoops. I do not fasten the plastic at the top. The furring strips at the bottom keep the plastic taut enough for me.

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Re: Hoop House Tutorial

Post  boffer on 10/20/2011, 2:02 pm

@westie42 wrote:I am making my hoops today (I hope). Once the hoops are in the pockets and supports are tied in cutting and securing the plastic becomes the issue. I really like Boffers home made 3/4 pipe clamp idea. Using them to anchor separate end pieces also seems like a way to get a smooth and tight end pieces. For the over the top main piece am wondering about using 1/2 pvc horizontally at the bottom on both sides then fit the plastic to it using the same home made clamps. Then somehow securely anchor those horizontal pipes on each side so they can be lifted for access to garden. Does this make sense or am I off in my thinking.

It's taken me a while, but I get what you're saying now. For the bottom of the sides, most folks just lay weights on the plastic laying on the ground. What you want is some form of a quick clamp, preferably one-handed.

Obviously these are over-kill. But they show my idea of half of the clamp is attached to the box, and the other half does the clamping. Vice Grip brand has a couple different styles also.



Or, if we try to K.I.S.S. it, what if you screwed a 2x2 to the box side; then stapled the bottom edge of the plastic to a 1x2; then you could use spring clamps to clamp the 1x2 to the 2x2.

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Re: Hoop House Tutorial

Post  staf74 on 10/20/2011, 2:58 pm

MASTERFUL !!!!

Furring strips.....genius ! Much better than weighing down the edges with bits of wood and other such stuff.

I always wanted my wagons to have simply one end open to vent and close up at night but could not picture how. Much easier than taking the whole thing off and on each morning AND night. I'll have to change my set-up and i think it could be done in time for first frost.

Did I say I was a visual learner?

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Re: Hoop House Tutorial

Post  westie42 on 10/20/2011, 3:58 pm

Thanks thats very informative. My 3 boxes are all 12 ft long so I need access from the sides probably more so than the ends. Thats why doing the long pipes at the bottom end of each side had appeal. My biggest worry you may have poked at was will the home made 3/4 clamps tend to cut or shred the plastic if worked by the wind. I can always figure something to anchor the horizontal pipes near the ground and not let them get frozen down. Possibly just uncovering them in January to save the plastic is best. Just priced 6 mil and it figures 4 cents per square foot. As. I see/feel it we are going to continue seeing this run away inflation until we too are just another third world country, we were warned it is now a global economy quite a few years ago. Hedging for the future wherever I can is my current self defense goal.

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Re: Hoop House Tutorial

Post  boffer on 10/20/2011, 4:19 pm

Cool!

The one disadvantage is where boxes are longer than six feet. Then you can't reach the middle rows.

Hah! Westie posted just seconds before I got this sent.





Cut your ends this way to minimize potential damage.


When the ends are cut this way, they dig into the plastic.

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Re: Hoop House Tutorial

Post  staf74 on 10/20/2011, 5:28 pm

Few cuts in my plastic ..... Guilty.

Rolls of duct tape on hand..... priceless !!

Almost a patchwork quilt. Refuse to buy another one until the sun disintergrates it !!!

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Re: Hoop House Tutorial

Post  BackyardBirdGardner on 10/20/2011, 5:57 pm

Redneck Toolbox...

1- If it moves and it ain't sposed to...duct tape.
2- If it don't move and it sposed to...WD fotey.

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Re: Hoop House Tutorial

Post  westie42 on 10/20/2011, 9:35 pm

Had to buy a 16 ft by 100 ft roll of plastic film in order to get it in 6 mil. After dark was when I was ready to apply the film but when unboxed I was not happy with how opaque rather than clear it was. To hope to find clear is an hour drive. Looking at Boffers pics though indicates what I bought is very close to the way his shows up. The pics of MoneyMan94 seem to look closer to what I thought clear should be so as not to cut down on light penetration. For tonight I stretched a 32x24 tarp over them and now wonder if going 60 miles for clearer plastic is worth my time/expense. What do you all think. Sometimes I am too fussy and sometimes not fussy enough, currently just confused and disappointed that clear ain’t really very close to clear.

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Re: Hoop House Tutorial

Post  staf74 on 10/20/2011, 10:29 pm

Mine is totally opaque. The advantage with opaque over clear is that you can also use it in the summer (almost like a shade cloth) to reduce solar load. Of course, both sides have to be totally open and vented but it does help crops in heat stress. The transparency of the cover does not affect its ability to retain heat and so it won't matter if you are only looking to protect from lows at night. However, if you are really serious about season extension, protecting crops by keeping covers on all day in daytime temps in the 20's or low 30's (or lower) then perhaps I might go for clear. Even then however, I don't think you have to worry about the clear v opaque debate unless you are at a latitude above say 50 degrees where the suns rays in mid winter are much weaker. This rules out most of the USA anyway.

Therefore, I don't think that clear offers a measurable benefit over opaque, so no need to worry. Someone chime in if you disagree, that's fine Smile Just what I seem to have come across from a little reading.

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Re: Hoop House Tutorial

Post  boffer on 10/20/2011, 10:49 pm

I'm currently using the 6 mil 'clear' from a big box store. I read someplace that light transmission is in the 55-60% range. I think MM94 said he was using 4 mil.

I'm in the process of building a simple greenhouse. I plan on using a 6 mil clear UV protected greenhouse film with 92% transmission from Farmtek.com
They have different roll widths that can be purchased by the linear foot.

Found at:
http://www.farmtek.com/farm/supplies//ProductDisplay?catalogId=10052&catalogId2=10001&ftCatalogId=10001&storeId=10001&langId=-1&division=FarmTek&searchMethod=wcSearch&searchType=ANY&searchBeginIndex=0&searchDefaultPerPage=10&ftSearchBeginIndex=0&ftSearchDefaultPerPage=10&mfPartNumber=108655


I hope to do a side-by-side comparison. When the days get short and the cloud cover gets thick, there's not a lot of sunlight to work with.

HA! (Staf just posted) I'm at 47°, and the sun is pretty weak in Dec and Jan.

I can say that in side-by-side comparisons between hoop houses with 6 mil contractors' plastic and traditional cold frames with tempered glass, the results were fairly similar.


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Re: Hoop House Tutorial

Post  staf74 on 10/20/2011, 11:05 pm

Nothing like a true side by side comparison. The truth here being we all live in such micro-climates anyway. What Boff and I experience is night and day in terms of climate. They call it "Carolina Blue" here for a reason. Our winters are very mild. I've NEVER seen a daytime temp below 35 for a high since moving here 5 years ago. Usually 45-50 even in mid Jan. Sun still hits a decent angle at 34 degrees latitude and our days are mostly crisp blue skies. Washington state however is 47 degrees latitude, surely colder temps and perhaps mostly cloudy winter skies probably calls for a clear cover to maximize all the UV one can get.

"Horses for courses" as they say Very Happy

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Re: Hoop House Tutorial

Post  gwennifer on 10/21/2011, 2:26 am

I was poking around on that FarmTek website Boffer posted and saw this:


Would be better if it could be tilted open from either side. But cool idea.

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Re: Hoop House Tutorial

Post  janezee on 10/21/2011, 3:54 am

Gwennifer, it looks as if it could be opened from either side, due to the grooves in the end boards looking the same. The prop would just have to be moved. It is a really cool design.
I just found a video that shows how to form the pvc pipes into u-shapes to make this type of form, using hot water. I like that this can be used for any hoop house, cloche, or anything that uses curved pvc, making the bend permanent and preventing shattering in cold or windy weather.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=OUoFA0C8WPE


And a really cool video of how to bend 1/2" conduit to fit a raised bed using a home-made jig of plywood and screws. Why didn't I think of that? thinking

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=97efefttsTQ&feature=related

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Re: Hoop House Tutorial

Post  MoneyMan94 on 10/22/2011, 7:09 am

Wow lots of great posts and ideas happening on this topic.

Update time - I just got my Agribon 30 yesterday; I bought a 10' x 50' roll for $30 delivered to NY. It was the cheapest I could find and with cheap came slowwwww. It took a little longer than I thought it would but the temps haven't dropped down near freezing yet. As we speak it is 46 degrees outside at 7am (and still dark out).

I will be putting the Agribon on shortly to add a few more degrees of protection to my crops. I will post here when I finally decide to put it on.

We had our first rain since I put up the hoop house a few days ago. I decided to prop up the plastic on the hoop house and allow the rain water to get in. I removed all of the clamps and pulled the plastic up to the top. I held it up with a few clamps and let the rain drop in. The next day I went out and put it back in place.

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Re: Hoop House Tutorial

Post  boffer on 10/22/2011, 2:52 pm

@staf74 wrote:...Did I say I was a visual learner?
Although we frequently say 'we like pictures' on this forum, they are, after all, only words. Here's a visual for you!!!!!




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Re: Hoop House Tutorial

Post  madnicmom on 10/23/2011, 12:01 am

stupid question of the day - my lows are getting to 38 degrees with light frost twice now. I have BS, cabbage, lettuce, spinach, radishes, carrots, beets going. At what point do we put the plastic on? Everything but the lettuce can withstand my weather conditions at this point.

to be honest, cabbage hasn't "headed" yet, BS are only about 12 inches tall with nothing forming , carrots have started to form but very small, lettuce,spinach, radishes,beets are going slowly also. Oh, Kohlrabi has not started forming either. I seriously don't know if a hoop house is going to help. Please prove me wrong!

I go below 10 hours of daylight in about 3 weeks.

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Re: Hoop House Tutorial

Post  boffer on 10/23/2011, 4:33 pm

Surviving cold temps is different than thriving in cold temps. In my climate, plants better be at or very near maturity right now, because their growth has slowed a lot. Growth is slow, even for cool crops, when the temps are in the 30s and 40s. And for me, sunshine starts getting pretty scarce this time of year.

I think of the use of hoop houses in the fall as a means of preserving fresh veggies on the stalk. It's like the plants are in hibernation and waiting to be used 'fresh'.

If you have the space and interest, you could hoop house them to see what will overwinter and begin growing in early spring.

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Re: Hoop House Tutorial

Post  madnicmom on 10/23/2011, 9:27 pm

thank you Boff, I will do that and report back my results.

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Re: Hoop House Tutorial

Post  BackyardBirdGardner on 10/23/2011, 9:28 pm

@boffer wrote:I think of the use of hoop houses in the fall as a means of preserving fresh veggies on the stalk. It's like the plants are in hibernation and waiting to be used 'fresh'.

If you have the space and interest, you could hoop house them to see what will overwinter and begin growing in early spring.

This above statement has two parts to it imo...

1- The first paragraph is largely why I've been on the quiet side the past month or two. I tried and tried to battle varmits and kept losing no matter what I did. The growth in plants slows ridiculously as temps cool in fall, mostly due to losing sunlight hours on a daily basis. In the spring, you put plants in the ground and as they need more energy from the sun, they get is because the days get longer and longer as the plants grow. Fall is the opposite. And, you had better have a strong stand of plants if you plan to harvest more than once. In fact, the best way to combat this is to plant TONS of plants, which was my goal. It just never materialized. As it is, I have one square of spinach "sprouts" doing nothing, carrots that won't mature this year, and seeds I'm starting of lettuce and more spinach...just to see what happens. I lost everthing else or it just never came up in the first place.

Your fall plants are hanging by a thin thread as frosts become frequent, and they just don't grow that noticeably. So, they had better be mature by the time frost happens. This is exactly why Mel's spring, summer, and fall charts are so important in the back of the book! Plan accordingly so your plants are near harvest when the weather cools off for good.

2- Hoop housing my plants is exactly what I plan to do this fall as a learning experience. I just want to see what happens, which is why I am still staggering startings....as long as Mother Nature allows it. I want to see what grows, when, how, and what it can all tolerate under the hoops.

Sorry that got long, but I think the first part is important for newer gardeners to understand. I don't like them getting frustrated with "normal" growing conditions in the fall garden. Btw, fall gardening is perhaps the more difficult topic to search across the net. Anyone can grow plants in the spring and summer. It takes a little more knowledge, mostly preparation, to have a bountiful fall garden once frosts hit.

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Re: Hoop House Tutorial

Post  madnicmom on 10/24/2011, 9:07 am

I don't mind long responses. I will "overwinter" them and see what happens.. Do you think spreading a couple of inches of straw to protect from freezing will work , like you do for onions,garlic and strawberries?

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Re: Hoop House Tutorial

Post  Kelejan on 10/24/2011, 2:29 pm

Thanks, BBG for that information. I have some lettuce under a hoop, and I now realize that they may never grow enough for me to harvest, so maybe it was a waste of time and money this year. I put off starting lettuce as it was so hot, then we have had a sudden transition to very much cooler weather with freezing night temperatures forecast for the coming week and if I have not tucked the up properly I expect I will lose them.

I have an Areogarden so I will sow my lettuce there.

But I do hope to make an earlier start next spring using the hoop house, so all will not be lost.

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Re: Hoop House Tutorial

Post  camprn on 1/15/2012, 6:03 pm

Bump: Hoop & row cover supplies and gadgets sunny


Last edited by camprn on 1/15/2012, 6:48 pm; edited 1 time in total

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